Travel, Horses, and Life

Dressage in the Tropics

Every day in the summer in South Florida feels like dressage in the tropics.  The summers here are sultry.  High heat and humidity ensure that you spend the entire day drenched in sweat, with frizzing hair and sunglasses on a sweaty slide down your nose.    But we are crazy horse people and the show must always go on, and so it does.  We have a summer show series which is aptly named Dressage in the Tropics. However, after the last show my friend Jen said could have been called Dressage in Hell

Fortunately, some of our show grounds have covered arenas.  At some places you warm up in the covered and only have to venture out into blazing sunshine for the 5-7 minutes it takes to ride your test.  However at Global you can warm up and show in all under cover in the Van Kampen arena.  When the temperatures are in the mid nineties with very high humidity, shade is a really important feature.  

These are small laid back off-season shows, but it is Wellington so the riders, trainers, and coaches are still some of the best.  At the most recent show there were plenty of Grand Prix rides. There were also Olympic-bound Para riders having one final go before heading to Japan, and many soon-to-be international equine stars competing at the lower levels.  I was there too, feeling inspired by riding near so many talented individuals. Though I was also feeling a little soggy and smothered under my stock tie and coat.  

The atmosphere is more laid back and there are very few spectators. Almost everyone just trailers in rides their test and trailers back out. And while it seems almost unbearable to show in such hot conditions, it is also really nice not to have to drive for hours and then unload hay, shavings, and what seems like all of your horse’s worldly possessions just to turn around an pack it all back up again in a couple of day.  

On show day Sevi was able to be turned out as usual that morning, have a bath in his regular wash rack, and be braided in regular regular cross ties.   Just over and hour before my ride, I hooked up my trailer and loaded my horse, his tack, and a bucket of water and off we went.  Within twenty minutes I had arrived and parked at the show grounds. I dressed in my sweltering tack room, put Sevi’s bridle on in the trailer, unloaded him, and put on his saddle trailer-side.   After our ride, I untacked him by the trailer, sponged him off and loaded him up for home.  He was back in his stall, hosed off, and cooling under his fans within half an hour.  So while it is definitely dressage in the tropics there is still an aspect of Dressage in Paradise to the experience.  

They Tyranny of the White Birds

This week the Ibis returned to Havensafe!  While they make occasional appearances all year round, “Season” is the best time for the Ibis to stalk its favorite prey – the delicate and high-strung Dressage horse.  

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In most ways Florida is an ideal place to train your horse in the Winter.  There is no snow to crash off of the roof, no frigid temperatures to turn your mild mannered gelding into a fire breathing dragon, no deer to bolt through your outdoor arena, and no Canadian geese to strike terror into your heart with their low altitude vociferous migrations.  However, what you do have here is a wide range of totally different flora and fauna to help desensitize and or traumatize your horse.  Oh yes, we have more to offer here than just the white birds! 

Tough not everyone agrees with me, I adore the lizards.  Like me, they are dysfunctional in temperatures below 75, becoming lethargic and even paralyzed by the cold.  Their cold-blooded bodies must be defrosted on hot rocks or in warm patches of grass.  I love finding them calmly sharing a pasture with my horse on a hot afternoon, both horse and Iguanas content to graze in the noon-day sun.   I am, however, less enamored of them when they suddenly make a run for it while I am out trail riding, their legs describing irregular circles on the sides of their bodies in a shockingly inefficient running style.  The horses are alway a little concerned when these generally slow moving creatures suddenly take flight dragging their incongruously long tails up a tree. 

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Lest you think that the animals have all the fun, the plants get in on the action as well.  Palm fronds waving around in a brisk breeze sound like an approaching army rattling their death sabers, and when they unexpectedly fall to the ground from their second story heights they create quite a racket.  After storms, they lie around in great menacing heaps the dry leaves rattling in the breeze, frightening the most intrepid trail horse.

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But perhaps the most alarming menace to equine tranquility comes not from a lizard or a tree, but from the unassuming Ibis.  These medium sized, nondescript white birds are the true terrors.  Many a quiet morning turnout is ruined as a flock of these birds quietly settles in the grass next to the pasture.  Your horse takes notice but is not immediately alarmed as the birds mill around pecking at invisible insects in the grass.  It is what comes next that is the problem.  In a seemingly pre-meditated move, the Ibis flock suddenly takes flight, swooping low over your previously calm horse their movements clearly conveying panic – the predator is coming, run for your life!   Run until you loose at least two of your shoes, find yourself in a lather – actively trampling the person who comes to rescue you in your haste to get back to the safety of your stall.  And the Ibis laugh. I am sure of it.  

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These cunning fowl know when they have a new victim and they make the most of it.  A couple of years ago I was coming back from a hack when I saw the little avian devils at work.  My friend Ashley had just arrived in Florida with her mare Somer.  Ashley had planned to get on Somer for an easy stretchy ride, nothing too strenuous.  However the Ibis had a different plan in mind.  As Ashley stood atop the mounting block the Ibis industriously pecked the grass all around.  They waited until Ashely had mounted and then one of them clearly gave the “go” signal.  They took off in panicked flight swooping low around poor Somer who knew immediately that coming to Florida for the Winter had been a bad and dangerous idea.  Somer lurched sideways trying to avoid the Ibis and still run from the predator from

which they were obviously fleeing, but the birds had more in store for her.  One of them spotted a snake and thought that this was the right time to pick up a snack for later.  The bird descended upon the snake and picked up the writhing body.  Now much to Somer’s dismay, there was a predatory bird flying right at her with what was probably a dangerous and possibly venomous snake.  The poor mare thought that the only reasonable course of action during such trying times was to rear and leap in the air. 

My horse meanwhile, was quite accustomed to the shenanigans of the these crazy birds and kept making his placid progress along the path towards the arena. I was not sure if I should attempt to approach Ashley and her leaping panicked steed to see if my calmer horse could offer soothing vibes, or stay put to avoid adding fuel to the fire.  Eventually, the scene concluded with the Ibis dropping the distressed snake and the flock swooping off to terrorize another horse at another barn, their work initiating a new horse to the Florida scene now complete.

As pre-meditated as their behavior seemed that day, it was hardly their first act of seemingly deliberate mischief.  Several years ago, there was a horse at our barn who truly hated those birds.  The mere sight of them would cause him to baulk and bolt, but they would never leave it at that.  No matter what time he was ridden they appeared ring-side to persecute him.  They bided their time, and as soon as he was focused on his work they would strike.  Not satisfied to merely take off, they would fly under the cover and straight through the arena, fluttering right past this miserable horse.  

While it is of course extremely unlikely that the Ibis plot against horses, the coincidence of their vexatious presence sometimes stretches the imagination.  The flocking, fluttering, and sudden low altitude flight is definitely alarming, but I wonder if our horses have also heard the theory that birds are descended from dinosaurs.  Perhaps deep down our large majestic equines still see themselves as small burrowing mammals, struggling for survival as they hide from the giant carnivorous jaws of T-Rex and the other forefathers of the Ibis.

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The Cone of Doom, or Not, Yes, Definitely

So here I am waiting for a hurricane.  It turns out that waiting for a hurricane is a lot like waiting for a baby.  You have a due date and certain expectations, but the baby always has other plans.  Right now the baby has missed his due date  and is staying in his cozy Caribbean home fattening up before his “arrival”.  Will this be a painless birth with a well functioning epidural or a drawn out and painful affair.  We do not yet know.

About a week ago there was a “Tropical Storm” way out in the ocean.  As a new year-round Floridian I did not yet realize what this “Tropical Storm” could turn into, so I barely paid attention.  Real Floridians drew my attention to the addictive game of “watching the storm”.  Everywhere I went there was the question,  “Do you think it will turn into something?”.   Umm I am pretty sure that it won’t turn into a toaster or anything so best not to worry.  Most people seemed to share my careless attitude on the subject.  Monday was my daughter’s first day of school and we were busy with all of the beginning of the year form-filling-out orientation-attending hullabaloo.  So I was rather surprised when Tuesday morning the collective attention of the great state of Florida turned eastward like fans at Wimbledon following a ball, and began to stare into the Caribbean.  The lowly Tropical Storm Dorian had ambitions above his station in life.  Not content with tropical storminess he aspired to be a Hurricane.

For months we have had a very good plan of action for our horses.  As all horse people know it is horses first, then everything else.  However, I had sort of supposed that we would not really need to implement this plan.  We are so fortunate to have the ability to take our horse to a facility rated for category 5 storms which can be safely enclosed, is elevated, and even has a generator.  Lucky horses! Maybe I can go too.  But no matter how well planned something is there is always the last minute struggle to HURRY UP, before commencing to wait.    When should the horses go?  What should we take with them? How many days will they stay and how many of those days will they be unaccessible to the outside world?  Should we pack enough supplies for two days or two weeks?  Fortunately, as equestrians, we go to horse shows so packing horses for trips of various lengths is sort of our thing.  I quickly had the essentials sorted and various plans for supplies based on the projected path and duration of the storm.

But here is the thing.  The projected path and duration is pretty much a complete mystery.  A week ago we thought this Caribbean interloper would remain a blustery tropical storm, by Tuesday the weather Gurus thought that he might “develop” into a Hurricane and make landfall, well somewhere (have you seen the spaghetti diagrams of these storms?).  Pretty much all of Florida, Georgia, and the Carolinas made it into the cone of doom.  Some even thought that perhaps Dorian would swoop around the tip of Florida and pop out in the Gulf like some sort of tricky basketball player driving to the net around a slow to react defensive player.

While getting the horses ready was of course my first priority, I tried to get provisions for my family too.  The tv and radio said that we should get gas.  So we all got gas, all the Floridians, all at the same time.  Kate and I waited for 45 minutes in an angry mob to fill my truck with diesel.  Soon there was no gas left.  The tv said to get water and enough food to last for a week.  We all went to Publix, again all the Floridians all at the same time.  Everyone was much more sedate at the grocery store.  I bought two cases of water, some snacks, and chocolate.  Everyone else seemed to be doing the same thing.  I got to the checkout and went back for more chocolate, you never know.  I tweaked my back moving patio furniture inside and called the home front prepared.

By Friday the projections were dire.  We were going to take a direct hit by a big Cat 4 storm.  I packed more supplies for the horses and had everything ready to take them to their “safe house”.   Then Dorian decided to slow down and fatten up a bit more.  He crept along towards the Bahamas gorging himself on warm tropical waters.  The gurus, for reasons unclear to me, decided that he was going to make a northern turn.  On Saturday,  were released from the cone of doom and told to just expect a bit of wind and rain.  Dorian was going to drift up the coast into the Atlantic and give his Florida vacation plans a pass.  And then I woke up today to find myself back in the cone of Doom with a super morbidly obese Cat 5 Dorian lumbering right at me.

 

Today we spent the entire day moving the horses and putting everything away that wasn’t nailed down.  I left the horses out all morning while we packed up brush boxes, bathing supplies, cross ties, and tack trunks.  Fortunately we have a fabulous team and we all worked together to get it done.  The Havensafe farm manager Christy has been incredible, helping us prepare and making plans to keep the farm and our horses safe.  About mid day we loaded the horses up and took them to their “Hurricane Camp” which is truly more of a five star resort for horses.  The barn will be full of horses weathering the storm.  They will be cared for by a High Performance groom, Carly.  A vet tech is staying on site as well which is a big comfort.  

 

My horses will being enjoying the storm with the aid of a little cocktail now and then.  Whatever it takes to make them feel comfortable when the wind starts blowing and the rain starts lashing.  I have a nice bottle of wine that I have been saving, and of course all of the chocolate that I bought.  I convinced Kate that the storm would be fun because we would spend the whole day, or two, together at home watching movies.  I hope that our supply of downloaded kid movies and back up battery charges hold up even if the power and internet do not.  Most of all I hope that we are all safe.

Ode to a Good Horse

Recently, my good friend Suzy lost her lovely mare and soul mate Bree.  This was a terrible and untimely loss of a mare still competing and in her prime. Bree was never an easy horse to ride, but Suzy and her trainer Lauren (also Suzy’s sister in law and my dear friend) worked hard and moved Suzy and Bree up the levels.  Bree eventually became a competitive PSG horse and helped Suzy earn her Silver Medal.  But when I heard that Bree died, after feeling heartbreak for Suzy, I immediately started remembering all of the wonderful things about Bree that had very little to do with her show career.  In essence Bree was a good horse and we are all so lucky when we have a good horse cross our paths.

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Bree and Suzy

 

Even when Bree was young and a little difficult to get on the bit, she was safe and kind.  She might have made her riders sweat, but she never worried them or made them think that they would be safer on the ground.  I owe Bree a debt of gratitude for, on more occasions than I can count, safely escorting me on a trail ride or around a new show grounds while I rode some young and explosive animal. Lauren and Bree stoically accompanied me on my first Florida trail ride when my horse Camillo was young and “snorty”.  When one of my training horses was merrily leaping around a warmup ring at his first show, it was Suzy and Bree who calmly stayed to babysit while others fled. Bree was often in demand as a companion or an escort at shows all over our region.  I hope that I remembered to thank Bree enough for all the many times that she saved me by simply being her sane and rational self, and not letting the insanity of another horse provoke her to foolishness.

 

Most of our horses are good and kind.  They are remarkably gentle with our children and make friends with our dogs and cats.  They allow us to ride them and to convince them to do things that they would never think to do themselves.  They allow us to put them in trailers and take them on trail rides.  But there are some very special horses out there who not only allow all of this, but actually help us to train other younger or more explosive horses to become civilized, and cope with training and showing environments.  Sometimes these horses are not the fanciest horses and don’t always make it into CDIs or show up on the cover of magazines, but they are just as special as their more famous peers.

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Camillo always loved Kate

A couple of weeks ago I was chatting with a friend about how she gets all of her horses to trail ride so well.  She told me that she often takes the very young horses at her farm out for trails by ponying them off an older, quieter horse – often a laid back gelding who doesn’t mind being bumped into a few times.  Her story reminded me of how may horses I taught to trail ride by taking them out with my gentle giant Hesse.  Hesse had rules about trail riding that included – only walking, never bolting, and not rudely passing the horse in front of you.  When we had a “bolter” in our midst, Hesse would walk calmly next to and just a hair in front of him.  All would seem fine and then all of a sudden the “bolter” would telegraph his intention to make a run for it.  Hesse would pin his ears and wheel on the horse, making him step back.  Then Hesse would carry on with his trail ride as if nothing had happened.  Hesse’s training method was much more effective than anything I could have thought of. 

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My Kind and Sweet Training Partner Hesse

The first horse I ever leased was a holy terror of a large pony named Bones.  Sometimes (ok often) Bones would become so annoyed with me that we would have to stop a lesson, take off all of his tack, and allow him to run around like a wild man to vent his frustration.  But Bones had a secret talent as a therapeutic horse.  Both before I competed him, and later on in retirement, Bones was used as a therapeutic horse.  He had unlimited patients for his riders who faced huge physical or mental challenges.  However, if an able-bodied person should happen to get on, Bones would feel free to leap and buck – how did he know?

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Bones had very little patients with me, but was wonderful as a therapeutic horse

My student Nita has a fancy German Riding Pony, named Cashew, who babysits all of the other horses in Florida turnout.  Without him everyone runs when the palm trees blow. But when Cashew keeps eating and says that he isn’t worried about the silly trees, there is peace once again in the kingdom.  What would we do without the Brees, Hesses, Bones, and Cashews of this world?

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Cashew the babysitter pony

So now as I remember Bree, I will also remember all of the good horses who have made my life as a rider and trainer just a little bit safer and more bearable.  I will remember to give extra carrots to all of the good horses who are still here.

Please share your stories or photos of Bree or of a Good Horse in your life.

 

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Magical Wellington

Every year at the beginning of “Season” I remember why I love Wellington so much.  Years ago, when I first came here for a short visit, I thought that I had fallen down the rabbit hole and emerged in an equestrian Disneyworld – and in many ways I had.  The sunshine, palm trees, horses, tack stores, horses shows, riders, and coaches are really just the tip of a very big iceberg in this little village.  

Here are a few of my favorite Wellington things:

-The Beautiful Weather!  Most Winters the temperatures stay in the 70s and 80s.  If the mercury drops into the 50s or 60s we all dress up like Eskimos in down parkas, and trendy moms at the park wear their Uggs.  There are blue skies with cotton candy clouds with a pleasant breeze blowing through the palm trees. I find the sound of wind in the palm trees relaxing though many of the horses find the noise terrifying.

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-The Horses – If you love horses and particularly if you love Hunters, Jumpers, Polo, or Dressage horses this is the place for you.  In the Winter months, many of the top horses in the world are here to train and compete in the Florida sunshine.

-The Riding and Coaching – Watching all of the top horses, riders, and coaches in the same environment is inspiring.  You really can see the best of the best in this charming little town.  The first year that I came I was overwhelmed by how accessible the world-class trainers and riders were.  I had been in Wellington for less than a week when I had the opportunity to watch Klaus Balkenhol working with some of the best US riders.  Sitting ring-side at the show I listened to Robert Dover, Kathy Connelly, and Ashley Holzer warming up their students.  It felt like everyday was a symposium, and I still feel that way. The quality of the riding and training here raises the bar for everyone.  Wellington is like the Harvard or MIT of the equestrian world.

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-The Barns – The barns here are beautiful.  Though there are many different styles, Mediterranean is predominate with stucco walls and mission tile roofs.  Most of the properties are actually quite small and pack a lot of utility onto just a few acres.  However, I have been lucky enough to stay at Havensafe Farm South where the park-like grounds offer plenty of space for hacking.  Formerly Centaur Farms and owned by Jeanette Sassoon, Havensafe was purchased by Betsy Juliano in 2007.  Betsy took a lovely farm and made it more picturesque, adding a gorgeous covered arena (which makes riding on even the hottest day comfortable), and creating a hacking area which we affectionately call the Serengeti. The perfect footing and entire short side of mirrors make it hard to have an unproductive ride at Havensafe. 

 

-The Horse Shows -The grounds of the Winter Equestrian Festival (WEF) which is the home of the immense Hunter/Jumper show dominates the horse show landscape.  It is a town unto itself, with stores and restaurants sharing space with horses, riders, blacksmiths, and vets.  If you want designer clothes, a silver platter, a million dollar horse, or a diamond necklace, you can find it at WEF.   Dressage, formerly the unloved stepchild of the show grounds – wedged into corners and unoccupied arenas at WEF, now has its own grounds across the street at Global.  We are also fortunate enough to have an alternative show grounds, White Fences, just 20 minutes away in Loxahatchee.  White Fences offers a quieter and more horse friendly environment that is super for young horses, or riders who need a little less pressure.

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-The International Vibe-  As I said previously, riders, coaches, horses, vets, and blacksmiths come from all over the world to train, show, and work here.  But they don’t come alone.  They bring their families, making the Village of Wellington much more international in flavor than you would expect from a small town in South Florida. Having dinner in a local restaurant you are likely to hear several different languages.  In my daughter’s school there are families from Italy, Venezuela, Germany, and Argentina. 

-A Place To Fit In-  If you are a rider who typically gets strange looks at your local grocery when you show up in your riding clothes driving a big dually, know that in Wellington you can be at ease.  The grocery store, post office, bank and dry cleaner are filled with people just like you.  Many of them are in riding clothes, some of them are still wearing their helmets (this is a hunter thing that I don’t completely understand – why not take it off when you are done riding? – I digress).  You can proudly haul your groceries back out to your big pickup truck which will be wedged in with a bunch of other unwieldy pickups.  Other moms at my daughter’s gymnastics class show up in breeches.

-The People Watching-  Horses are expensive so Wellington is also a winter destination for the rich and famous.  Bill Gates, Michael Bloomberg, Bruce Springsteen, and so many others might drop in to watch their family members ride.  British royalty might pop over to watch a polo match.  In addition to horses they bring fabulous cars.   Next to your pickup truck at the grocery store you might find a Bentley or Maserati (covered in dust from a day at the show).  There might also be just a tad of plastic surgery here and there.

-Beyond Horses –  For most of the years that I have spent time in Wellington I have been here for the horses only.  But now that I have a daughter and am more a part of the broader community, I have found so much more here to love.  Wellington is a great place for kids.  Their are parks and a great community center with a huge pool.  Most Thursday nights there are food trucks and live music in the town center.  If you take a break from the horse show you can go to art festivals and farmers markets  on the weekends.  There are movies shown in the public amphitheater most Friday nights – with a kids movie at least twice a week.  The beach is only 20 minutes away and their are museums and zoos and beautiful gardens open to the public.  Lion Country Safari is just down the road and in addition to a drive through safari there is a small amusement park (and you can feed giraffes!).

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Quirky Details – At one point there was a woman dressed in a wizarding costume who roamed, at the slowest possible pace, around the streets of Wellington.  She floated ethereally about dressed in what must have been a swelteringly hot velvet outfit.  Everyone knew her as the Witch of Wellington and she even had a cameo in a novel by Tami Hoag.   There is a bizarre old mall which is trapped in a 1970’s time warp where everything is pink and bright green.  As strange as this mall is, we all go there to have our boots repaired at the iconic Woody’s leather repair.  While waiting for your boots, you might very well run into George Morris getting a sandwich at Aroma’s the breakfast and lunch cafe.  Just imagine what he is saying about how fat you look in your breeches or how poor your posture is!

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Old Fashioned British Mysteries

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Everyone has the equivalent of “comfort food” reading and mine is the British Mystery.  In this blog, I will focus on British mysteries written before 1960. 

Sir Basil Thomson – Inspector Richardson Series

Part of the fun of reading these books is first reading the biographical details of the author.  I won’t spoil the fun, but suffice it to say that Sir Basil Thomson worked as a British intelligence officer, a police officer, a colonial administrator in Fiji, Tonga, and British New Guinea, a farmer in Iowa, a prison governor, and a writer.  He was once arrested along with a young woman of questionable reputation for “committing an act in violation of public decency” in Hyde park.  Though his life seems pretty complicated his books are not.  There are some twists and turns in the plots, but the books flow along easily.  Inspector Richardson is organized and generally likable.  I read all of these books in pretty quick succession and was disappointed when there weren’t any more.  In a few years I can read them again (as I age the number of years I need to forget a plot grows shorter) but Sir Basil himself passed away in 1939 so I won’t hold my breath for a new book in the series.

Dorothy Sayers – Lord Peter Wimsey Series

Lord Peter Wimsey is the prototypical aristocrat who dabbles in sleuthing.  He is so good at solving crimes that Scotland yard calls him in when things get hairy, and he is apparently quite welcome to contaminate any crime scene in the British Empire.  Lord Peter falls in love with a strong female character named Harriet Vane (a crime novelist).  He spends many books wooing her with poetry while ruminating his way through solving the crimes which have baffled mere Scotland Yard detectives.  Dorothy Sayers was a true scholar, not just a novelist, and is reported to have said that her best work was her translation of Dante’s Divine Comedy (I have not read any of her scholarly work).  I enjoyed all of her Peter Wimsey books with the minor exception of The NineTailors  – the plot of which revolves around the intricate art-form of “change ringing” church bells.  I think that the math confused me!  I am a big fan of the more contemporary author P.D. James and must comment on the similarities with her aristocratic, poetry writing sleuth Adam Dalgliesh.  If you enjoy P.D. James you should try reading her predecessor Dorothy Sayers.

 

Dame Ngaio Marsh – Roderick Alleyn series

While some of Marsh’s books were written after 1960, most, and all of my favorites, were written before.  A prolific author, Marsh penned over 30 crime novels featuring her star detective Roderick Alleyn.  Her crimes and plots are usually complicated and many of her characters a bit off balance.  Marsh’s other great passion was theatre, and the world of the stage is a frequent setting for her novels.  I do not always love the books set in the theatre and I am not sure why.  Perhaps because the authors love of the theatre somehow overshadows the crimes, or maybe because I am not a theatre buff.  I enjoy most of her other books and am partial to the 1941 Death of a Peer.  I also like her books set in New Zealand which have a slightly different tone and richly described scenery – but still feature Roderick Alleyn (the poor man is often on vacation, but crime follows him to ends of the earth).  Colour Scheme which is set at a New Zealand hot springs resort during WWII is full of suspected Nazi’s and is a lot of fun.  

 

Agatha Christie 

I just couldn’t write about British crime fiction from this period without including the Queen of the Golden Age Mystery (and yes, Margery Allingham should get a nod here too).  Christie’s books are not pure literature, but they are incredibly readable – she is still one of the best selling authors of all time. She is often criticized for having formulaic plots and stereotypical characters, but these were clearly formulas and stereotypes which appealed to the readers of the time.  I grew up reading these books and I doubt that there are many that I have not re-read at least once.  I admire Christie’s fortitude as an author, publishing 66 crime novels in addition to other work.  She was obviously well read herself as she references literature constantly in her books and titles.  Several works allude to Shakespeare.  My mother always favored the Miss Marple series while I liked the Hercule Poirot books, but they are all good.  I always keep a few of these on hand in my Kindle and read one as a pallet cleanser between other books.  A couple of my favorites are And Then There Were None and Murder on the Orient Express. Continue reading Old Fashioned British Mysteries

Boy Books

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Daniel Silva  – The Gabriel Allon Series

Daniel Silva’s novels are somewhat more high brow shoot-em-up boy books.  While they offer a great deal of action and lots of guns, there is also art, culture, and international travel.  The protagonist, Gabriel Allon, is a Mossad assassin but also an incredibly talented art restorationist.  He restores old master paintings while hunting down the enemies of Isreal.  As an art history major who loves a good thriller these books are particularly appealing to me.  The writing is good and Silva easily transports you to richly described cities around the globe.  Gabriel is a tortured soul with a complicated personal life that pulls at your heartstrings and compels you to turn the page.  Many characters and plots resurface in consecutive books so they flow better if read in order, but can stand alone as well.  If you like art, travel, and espionage this series is for you.

Brad Thor  – Scott Harvath Series

These books are a little more traditional boy books.  They are populated with guns, special forces soldiers, and pretty women.  All of the stories involve an intense crisis of international terrorism.  Often Scott Harvath jets off to interesting places around the globe, offering a nice opportunity for vicarious international travel.  Thor’s stories move fast and are good to listen to while driving or exercising.  Though all are stand-alone novels they are part of a series and aspects of the backstory are better understood if read in order.  As a bonus, I have learned a lot about tactical sub-machine guns (whatever they are)  from reading these books.

Brad Taylor – Pike Logan Series

 After an initial sense that I would not like these books because all the characters had ridiculous “call signs”, I found myself pulled along by a pretty good shoot-em-up series.  The author uses liberal splashes of humor even in really intense fight scenes, which makes them much more readable.  The narrator is male,  but there is a female character who is not completely one dimensional – a rare bonus.  While everything blows up and at least one main character is near fatally wounded in each story, these books flow easily and lightly.  They are good as audio books and perfect for driving or working out.  There is usually some pretty exotic travel and the Taylor does a nice job describing the scenery.  Despite the funny call signs I am usually happy to read a book from this series.

Dan Mayland – Mark Sava Series

This dark and brooding series introduces Mark Sava, a former CIA station chief who is trying to peacefully live out his days.  Unfortunately, he is sucked back into the crazy world of international espionage when circumstances conspire against him.  These stories are a little grimy and brutal, much like the region in which they take place.  I had to consult a map a couple of times because Azerbaijan, Iran, and “the Stans” (Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Turkmenistan) don’t easily arrange themselves on my mental map.  I enjoy reading novels that transport me to a place I have never been and will likely never go.  Like the other boy books these novels move quickly and cover a great deal of geography.  They are good as audiobooks, but check out a map before you get confused.

Creepy, but I Read it Anyway

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The world According to Garp and anything written by John Irving

Shortly after college I binge-read almost all of John Irving’s books.  It seemed that everyone I knew was reading A Prayer for Owen Meany and Cider House Rules was made into a movie.  All of Irving’s novels were cleverly written and populated with the quirkiest characters imaginable.  I laughed a lot while I read, but I also shuddered because all of the books are really kind of Creepy.  Filled with ether-addicted abortion doctors, midgets, and dancing bears they were excellent fodder for nightmares.  Years after reading The World According to Garp, I still get an icky feeling every time I look at a gear shift – I will leave that one up to your imagination.  In fact, it was after finishing The World According to Garp, I read them all out of order, that I realized that I needed a break!  I have not read Irving’s most recent works because I am still recovering from the earlier ones.  I will continue on one day because Irving is a masterful storyteller and every now and then a creepy book is just what you want.  If anyone has thoughts about the more recent Irving offerings, I would love to hear.

 

The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins

A couple of years ago, when this book became The Book, I got an audio version and listened to it on my trip home from Florida.  It was a pretty good choice for a long road trip.  The story held my attention, and I did not figure out the twist until the end.  As I believe the author intended, I both sympathized with and was repulsed by the alcoholic narrator, Rachel.  Likewise, I couldn’t quite get a bead on whether or not her husband/ex-husband, Tom, was a creep or a decent man brought to the end of his tether by Rachel’s behavior.  That sense of not knowing whose camp you are in, and of course the feeling that you too have been on a drunken bender, is the thing that makes this book the shuddersome work that it is.

 

Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov

For some reason I had skipped, or perhaps avoided, this book for years.  Not until a good friend gave me a copy of Reading Lolita in Tehran and told me that I needed to re-read The Great Gatsby (fortunately the work of an afternoon, and yes a little weird in its own right), and read Lolita before I started, did I take the plunge.  Obviously, this book is supposed to be creepy, pedophilia is about the creepiest topic out there.  Of course the thing that makes Lolita truly disturbing is that is is written from the perspective of the pedophile, and in a way that makes him almost….sympathetic?  In the end you feel very concerned that you are not somehow more disturbed by him.  I am glad that I read it, upsetting though it was, because it is such a cultural reference point .

 

Skeletons at the Feast and others by Chris Bojalian

Skeletons at the Feast is primarily disturbing because it takes an intimate look at the lives of people trapped inside the Third Reich at the end of WWII.  This book is historical fiction, romance, and at moments tragic comedy all blended together. There are really three separate stories entwining in epic upheaval at the end of the war.  A young Prussian woman, Anna, and her family become refugees as they flee the violence, a Jewish man poses as a Nazi officer after escaping a transport to a concentration camp, and a French Jewish woman tries to survive inside a camp.  Though the scenes and subject matter are nothing short of nightmarish, I actually loved this novel.  There is so much great literature written about WWII that it is sometimes hard to find a stand out, but for me this is one.  Inspired by my love of this book I tried to read others by this Bojalian, and while the subject matters and characters were nothing short of triumphs of imagination, the books were simply too bizarre for me. Before you know Kindness and Double Blind both left me perplexed and with an overwhelming feeling of ickiness.  Has anyone read any of the others?  What were they like?

 

Never let me Go by Kazou Ishiguro

After reading Ishiguro beautiful novel  The Remains of the Day, for which he recently won the Nobel Prize, I immediately checked the library for anything else he wrote and found Never Let Me Go.  I was expecting something very similar to the earlier work that I loved so much, but I got a bit of a surprise.  The tone and tempo of Never Let Me Go are similar to that of The Remains of the Day, but certinaly not the almost sinister subject matter.  Half the unpleasantness is not knowing about it, so if you are of a mind to read Never Let Me Go I suggest you stop here, but what seems initially like a sad love story quickly devolves into a dystopian nightmare.  The main characters actually turn out to be clones of living people.  They were “created” for the purpose of having spare organs on hand for their “real selves”.  I found this novel almost crushingly sad and am always upset when I think of it.

Books to Travel With

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Some of my travel is long, across the country or across an ocean, but I also take short trips on a daily basis – otherwise known as commuting. On any given day I might spend between two and four hours in the car. For me, one of the keys to getting through a trip of any length is a good book. For many years, I have had a habit of alternating two fiction with one non-fiction selection. Although admittedly, I often get on a roll with one author or theme and read everything by that writer in or in that category. Lately, my favorite thing to do is to get a book for Kindle which is also available with Audible, that way I can switch back and forth between reading and listening depending on my location/situation. Though sometimes that thriller that keeps me awake on a long drive is the wrong choice for the two A.M. book to lull me back to sleep.

I have been lucky enough over the years to have friends who commute, or are insomniacs, and who also love to read. They have shared their lists, audio CDs, and in one case a pre-loaded ipod with me. It was wonderful to find new books and authors, and to get pushed out of my comfort zone by someone else’s literary interests. Recently, I made of list of different authors, series, or types of books that I like so that I could search for similar ones on Amazon. In addition to some normal categories like Contemporary Thrillers, I ended up with some very peculiar groups including, Dead Bodies in South Florida, Creepy, but I Read It Anyway, and Abandon all Hope. For today’s blog I have included excerpts from my lists for Beautiful Books and Dead Bodies in South Florida. With each entry I have included a brief description. If you have an author or a book that fits into one of these categories please share.

 

 

Beautiful Books

 

A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles

A small “set” with vividly drawn characters and a charming protagonist make this one of my new favorites. With a backdrop of revolution, communism, and class warfare, Towles juxtaposes the old world ideals of chivalry and manners with a new world order dominated by bureaucratic absurdity. I loved the main character and admired his absolute grace in making the best of a bad situation. I listened to much of this book through an Audible narration which was beautifully read.

 

Death Comes for the Archbishop by Willa Cather

It is the way that Cather somehow unites the telling of this story with the scenery of New Mexico that make me love this book. There is something about the Southwest, and its native inhabitants, that demand the “long view” of life and that is exactly what this tale offers. Vignettes from the lives of two Catholic priests attempting to bring European religion to a different land coalesce in the dying remembrances of the characters. The scenery, the story, and the main characters all bring a sense of beauty to this novel. I would not choose this piece for driving, but rather for a time when you can devote a few hours and some attention to the book.

 

The Inspector Gamache series by Louise Penny

This series also made it into Contemporary Murder Mysteries and should sit prominently in a special group entitled Books That Make Me Hungry. In this series the well mannered and devoted family man Chief Inspector Armand Gamache finds himself constantly embroiled in solving complicated crimes, usually in the mysterious and secluded Canadian village of Three Pines. The town seems to have a personality of its own and the inhabitants are very richly portrayed. Penny does a lovely job of describing the scenery, but her real magic seems to come in describing the food. The Characters spend a great deal of time partaking of fabulous cuisine at the local B and B. Every time I read one of these books I gain weight as I seek out croissants and cafe au lai. An interesting sub-plot in many of the books is the tension between the descendants of the Anglos and those of the French in the Province of Quebec. With a subtle similarity to Northern Exposure– one of my favorite TV series ever- there is something very lovely not just in the scenery, but in the quirkiness of the characters in these novels.

 

 

Dead Bodies in South Florida

 

Novels by Carl Hiaasen Carl Hiaasen

is a native of South Florida and his books paint a rich tapestry of life in the Sunshine State – but mostly they are hillarious! Once while on a plane I started one of his novels and embarrassed myself by laughing until I cried. Hiassen often tackles complicated topics, like development around the everglades or the introduction of invasive species, but he delivers these subjects in uproarious mysteries populated by the most outrageous and yet somehow plausible (only in South Florida) characters imaginable. I live in Florida for part of every year and I love when Hiaasen hides the bodies in the canals of Loxahatchee – that is where I would put them too!

 

The Cuban Affair by Nelson DeMille

Ok so much of the action in this thriller takes place in Cuba, but the book starts and finishes in Key West and the vibe is all South Florida. The main character runs a charter boat and is hired by a group from the Cuban ex-pat community to do a little job which would not please the Cuban Regime. I am pretty sure that DeMille did a bit of vacation research for this novel. He captured not just the sunsets, but the pace of life in South Florida and the characters – many of whom are themselves ex-pats not from another country, but from another walk of life or another time and place. While this is a thriller, like so many of DeMille’s novels it is also really funny. He highlights the absurd and even, I think, pokes fun at the “cameo” of himself on the Cuba tour.

 

Novels set in Wellington by Tami Hoag

Fellow equestrian, Tami Hoag, writes a number of murder mystery series. One series features Elena Estes a rider and ex-cop who inhabits the incredible, but by no means fictional, world of Wellington, Florida. As Wellington is my home for part of every year I have an affinity for seeing the places and people of this special little world set down in print. My favorite moments come when the characters go to places I recognize and meet people I know. Hoag even granted a special appearance to the Wizard of Wellington (she called her The Freak but we all knew who she was talking about), an elderly woman woman who would inexplicably walk very slowly around town dressed in full wizarding regalia in sweltering weather. For anyone who loves the magical equestrian Village of Wellington this series will make you nostalgic.

Cambria California and Moonstone Beach

This past June I found that I had a travel opportunity or conundrum.  My husband lives and works in Sacramento and wanted my daughter and me to come and see him.  While I wanted to visit him, I was less than enthusiastic about spending a long weekend in his bachelor pad with our daughter.  My husband is enjoying a bit of a mid-life crisis involving quitting his job in Ohio to take a lower paying, but more interesting, “dream job” in California.  His job might be permanent, but his placement in California is not, so he is just renting an apartment for now. While I tried to steer him towards a furnished option, he preferred and un-furnished apartment, and un-furnished is the way it has remained.  He even tried sleeping on the floor for a couple of weeks before he caved and bought a mattress.  So, now he has a mattress and a folding lawn chair, and that is about it.  He is also not big on grocery shopping, and while he has lived in this apartment since March, he claims that he hasn’t “needed” to clean it yet, ewwww.

Fortunately, about this time, I found that I needed to travel to Los Angeles for work, so I suggested that we meet in the middle.  With some of the prettiest stretches of the California Coast conveniently located South of Sacramento and North of LA, we had some great places to chose from.  I searched the web, studied a map, and asked friends.  I came up with Cambria, a quiet little seaside town with what appeared to be a very pretty stretch of coastline called Moonstone Beach.  My husband asked co-workers for recommendations and came up with the same place.  Along the picturesque routes 1 and 101, my husband would pass Monterey and Carmel on the way down, and I would pass Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo on the way up.  So, that was the plan.

My daughter and I flew to LA, got our rental car, and Kate spent the day stuck with me doing work things.  We stayed just north of LA that night in a really nice town called Somis.  Almost an hour out of the congestion of LA, Somis felt like a somnolent suburban oasis.  It was great to have a restful night after a long day of travel and we were ready to hit the road early the next morning.

Our drive time was going to be over four hours, so I tried to get my daughter excited about seeing the Pacific Ocean, and her dad, when we got to our destination.  Of course, I knew that I was in for a long morning of “are we there yet?” echoing from the back seat.  But the drive from Somis to Cambria really was breathtaking.  After a little bit of bland highway scenery with nothing more than colorful than billboards to distract the eye, suddenly there was the Pacific Ocean filling the windshield.  No matter how many times I have seen this dramatic coastline with the rocky shore jutting out into crashing waves, it never ceases to inspire.  By the time we were just about to Santa Barbara I had said “Look Kate isn’t it beautiful?” one too many times.  Kate finally started answering in her best five going on fifteen voice, “Yes mom, I know it is pretty.”  You can imagine the eye roll and the sigh.

I felt a slight temptation to stop in Santa Barbara and even to take Kate to see the historic Old Mission church and the attached manicured gardens, but I kept my eye on the prize and did not push my luck with my pint-sized travel buddy.  However, if I had a more leisurely schedule and maybe had planned a two day drive to Cambria, I definitely would have stopped.  Santa Barbara is one of my favorite California towns.  Not too big, not too small, and just the right amount touristy.  And though I am not religious, the Santa Barbara Mission is a special and spiritual place with a fascinating history.  Founded in 1786, it is still home to a community of Franciscan Friars and the gardens are well worth the trip.

After Santa Barbara, we wound our way through a steep and hilly terrain slightly away from the coast.  This section was generally rocky and parched, but dotted with a few scenic outlooks where you could see lakes and rivers.  We stopped at one with a large reservoir where the glassy pool perfectly reflected the sky.

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Then our route took us back out along the coast as we sailed north passing Pismo Beach (fans of the 90‘s classic Clueless with recall the reference to a fictitious Pismo Beach Disaster) and St. Lois Obispo.  We had drifted slightly inland again when we exited the highway to head towards Cambria.  We drove through a little college town and past a rather imposing prison, before finding ourselves cutting through a town with a single main street nestled at the bottom of a steep hill.  This was the beginning of Cambria.  While this little shopping and eating district did not look very impressive I wasn’t too worried because we immediately passed it and headed right back towards the ocean, driving along the oceanfront hotel properties.

Of course, there is just nothing bad that can be said about the view of the Pacific.  It is so dazzling that it almost looks fake with rocky outcroppings and crashing waves as far as the eye can see.  And, I could finally answer the “are we there yet?” question in the affirmative.  All of the hotels seemed to have a different take on the same theme; quaint boutique sized inns distinguished by architectural style.  Most were modern, some exceedingly so with a steel and glass vibe, while others were a little more charming and cottage like with tiny balconies jutting off their facades.  These hotels all fronted a little two lane road separating them from the boardwalk and cliff overlooking Moonstone Beach.

We checked in to the Pelican Inn and Suites, and were thrilled with our room which afforded an ocean view and a small balcony.  We immediately  opened the sliding glass door to let both the sound and the smell of the Pacific waft into the room.  Our suite also offered a modern bathroom, a wet bar, an extremely comfortable bed, and a small sunken living room complete with a fireplace.  While the weekend rates for this hotel were pretty high, the mid-week rates were reasonable, even for a room with an ocean view.  Other hotel amenities included a pool and hot tub.  The pool was small but heated and tucked away from the ocean breeze, where swimming and sunbathing felt more comfortable.

While just a few miles inland the temperatures were almost 100 degrees, right by the ocean the mercury dropped precipitously to a very breezy 70.  I am always cold and frankly, even with a sweater, I was shivering.  My husband had not yet arrived, so after adding another layer, Kate and I continued to explore.  Walking across the street we strolled along the wood planked boardwalk which wound like the path of a meandering snake all along the cliff top.  Along the way we found a set of somewhat rickety wooden stairs taking us down to the beach.

 

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As with many beaches along central and northern areas of the California coast, this beach was not soft and sandy.  It was comprised of a blanket of tiny pebbles punctuated here and there with some larger rocks and driftwood.  We found that with or without shoes it was pretty rough to walk on.  There were many large rock formations at the edge of the water which were perfect to climb on and provided great vantage points for observing the ocean, coastline, and cliff above.  Kate and I perched on one of the large rocks, occasionally being sprayed by very cold water, and watched a few wet-suited surfers doing their thing.

We spent a bit of time by the hotel pool and then, when my husband arrived, we were able to just walk up the street to a restaurant with ocean views and a heated outdoor patio.  We had an after dinner stroll along the ocean and planned the activities for the next day before turning in to listen to the Pacific crash into the rocks as we slept.

The next morning I left my family slumbering away while I took a solo walk along the boardwalk.  I left our hotel, crossed the street, and followed the walkway to the North.  The air was brisk and I needed a sweat shirt and long pants, but dressed that way I was pretty comfortable.  There were lovely wildflowers and scrubby chaparral lining the path, and of course a fabulous and unobstructed view of the Pacific to my left.  Following the path for about half a mile, I ended up at an overlook sight where I took some lovely pictures (I was not the only one there with my camera early in the morning).

 

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While the views out into the ocean and along the coast were great, upon closer inspection I also realized that if I looked down onto the rocks there was something pretty special.  Seals were warming themselves all along the coastal rock formations.  They were so well camouflaged that I missed them at first, but they were there in great numbers!  As I headed back to the hotel, I realized that I could walk down a set of stairs and walk out pretty close to where the seals were sunbathing.  A number of tourists were out on the rocks trying to be quiet and careful as not to scare the seals away.  However, the seals did not seem concerned about the humans at all.  They were obviously accustomed to being observed.  I knew that this would be a fun thing for my daughter to see, so I headed back to the hotel to rally the troops.

 

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After a complimentary breakfast at the hotel we headed back to where I had seen the seals earlier, and Kate had a chance to see them too.  We were all amazed at how close we could get to so many wild animals, seemingly without disturbing them in the slightest.  Another pleasant surprise came as we were sitting on the rocks. There were endless tiny tide pools brimming with aquatic life.  Tiny starfish, crabs, and muscles were just a few of the little organisms in the tide pools.  Each of the little pools seemed to have its very own ecosystem.  Kate liked it, but I was actually more impressed than she.

Then I sprung the news on Kate and my husband that I had another little outing planned.  I am often accused of taking my family on “forced marches” while on vacation.  This might be true, but I liked to think of these excursions as adventures.  While researching Cambria, I read that the town of San Simeon,  just a few miles North,  provided the hillside home for sitting on top of Hearst Castle.  A national historic landmark, Hearst castle has a strange and fascinating story, built over the span of many years for the newspaper mogul William Randolph Hearst, it was designed by California Architect Julia Morgan.

Hearst had originally camped on this sight communing with nature and enjoying the jam-dropping views of the Pacific.  Gradually, he had decided to live in more comfort, and eventually opulence, building a new world castle decorated with the spoils of old world castles, manor houses, and even adorned with artifacts from ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian ruins.  In its heyday in the early 1900s, this house hosted politicians, dignitaries, and virtually all of hollywood.  Winston Churchill, Cary Grant, Greta Garbo, and FDR were all reported to have been guests.  How they actually got there is a mystery to me.  San Simeon itself is pretty far off the beaten path and the castle, it turns out, is a rather harrowing bus ride up a steep and guardrail-free hill riddled with hairpin switch-backs.  The very charming audio guide- Alex Trebek’s voice I think – tells the story of the house, its building, and even the zoo animals that at one point roamed the grounds (there was a bear pit – no bears there anymore – but there are zebras, descendants of the original members of the menagerie, roaming the grounds and adjoining ranch property).

At the end of the bus ride, after I spent a moment feeling thankful that our driver did not have a cardiac event on the way up plunging the bus into the ocean, our group was gathered up by a ranger who imparted a ton of information about the castle and its storied past.  The gardens, still meticulously maintained, are really gorgeous and the views of the ocean are vivid.  I had chosen the Great Rooms Tour which led us through a grand hall, dinning hall with a table that sat at least 30, a billiards room, and a movie theater.  The decor was heavy, dark woods and tapestries.  I found it pretty interesting and our docent was knowledgable and amusing, but Kate declared near the end of the tour that she didn’t want to see anymore old house stuff – fair enough.  We strolled the grounds, sweating a bit as it was much hotter up here than it had been at sea level in Cambria.  There were little terraces jutting out everywhere emblazoned with blooming flowers and arranged with stone benches providing fantastic views of the castle, gardens, and ocean.

 

On the way in the guide introduced us to the Neptune pool, currently drained because of leaks and the need to conserve water, which is surrounded by statues of ancient gods.  It must have been very impressive in the prime of this great house.  Also, it was probably the only place to cool down on a hot summer day.  As we wound our way back to the bus, we detoured through a massive building housing the indoor pool.  The pool and the walls of this cavernous room are awash in mosaic tiles, providing a bit of a byzantine ambience.

 

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After we survived an equally harrowing ride down the mountain, it was time for lunch.  Apparently touring “old houses” makes everyone hungry.  We had lunch at one of the many little restaurants on the main street in Cambria and took a walk through the town.  Cambria does feel touristy, but that means that there are plenty of places to eat and to buy souvenirs.  We scoped out a place to eat the next day and also a place to get ice cream.

That evening we bundled up and sat on a piece of driftwood to watch the sunset.  Kate loved playing in the surf, getting only her feet wet in the frigid water, and building a “rock castle” from the pebbles strewn on the beach.  There were a number of small groups establishing little outdoor living rooms to watch the sun disappear into the Ocean.  After darkness fell, we hiked up the steps and across the street to our hotel to spend one last night listening to the crashing waves while we slept.

 

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On our final day in Cambria, we spent much of the morning collecting rocks at the beach and climbing on the huge boulders.  In the early afternoon we checked out of our hotel and had one last, really excellent, meal at a restaurant which specialized in locally sourced produce.  Kate and I stopped at the ice cream shop to get milkshakes for the road.  We said goodbye to my husband and headed back to LA to take the red eye (what was I thinking) home.

The drive back to Los Angeles was through the more arid inland region of the state and was not as lovely as the way up along the coast.  However there were a couple of beautiful vistas overlooking reservoirs, and the mountains, windmills, and agricultural fields presented their own kind of beauty.

If I planned this trip again, I would try to stop along the way up the coast, maybe adding an extra day in Santa Barbara.  I hope that the next time we travel to California we can continue up the coastline and spend time in Carmel and Monterey.  But if you just have a few days and are looking for a quiet beach community to relax and unwind, Cambria with picturesque Moonstone beach really is a good choice.